The Ubud Writers and Readers Festival (UWRF) returns for its 23rd year, with a four-day programme running across 21 to 25 October 2026. The theme is Samarasā, drawn from Sanskrit philosophy and its idea of harmony between mind, heart and action, which the festival glosses as awareness, empathy and action. More than a hundred talks, panels and readings are held at the main venue at Taman Baca on Jalan Raya Sanggingan, with additional spaces along the same corridor.
A Menu Inspired by Indonesian Regions
The festival spends four days on Indonesian and regional voices, on translation, and on how a place shapes what gets written about it. Guided by the Moon is organised along the same lines. Its courses come from named Indonesian regions rather than from a general idea of Indonesian food. Coto Makassar is from South Sulawesi. The bubur Manado reading behind the Madura blue crab risotto is North Sulawesi. Pindang and bobor are Javanese and Balinese. For anyone who has spent four days on Indonesian writing, a menu arranged by region continues the programme rather than interrupting it.
There is a structural resemblance as well. A degustation menu is sequenced for the same reason a festival programme is. It opens, light builds, turns at its deepest point, and resolves; neither one works read out of order. That suits this audience in particular, because a four-day pass is bought by people willing to follow an argument to the end, which is the temperament a seven-course menu asks for.
The Night Worth Choosing
Festival programmes are often full from morning until evening, with talks, workshops and cultural events scheduled throughout the day.
For that reason, the final evening of the festival is usually the most relaxed time to enjoy the full seven-course Guided by the Moon experience. Once the closing session has finished on Sunday, 25 October, there is no need to leave dinner early for another event.
Guests extending their stay until Monday, 26 October, may find another appealing opportunity. The full moon falls that evening, creating an interesting coincidence with the Guided by the Moon concept. While this is not part of the restaurant’s programme, it offers an additional point of interest for guests who appreciate the connection.
Those dining earlier in the festival may prefer the five-course menu, which follows the same culinary journey in a shorter format and leaves more flexibility for evening events.
Getting There from Taman Baca
Taman Baca sits on Jalan Raya Sanggingan, northwest of the Ubud centre. Apéritif Restaurant is at Viceroy Bali on Jalan Lanyahan in Petulu village, northeast of it. The route runs down through the centre and back out again, which is roughly 15 to 20 minutes in ordinary conditions and longer, between five and seven, in the evening during festival week.
The detail that catches people out is the shuttle. The festival runs free shuttle buses every 30 minutes from 08:00 until 18:00, when dinner service begins. Anyone holding an evening table needs their own transport, and it is easier to arrange this before the final session than after.
A 6 pm table means leaving Sanggingan by half past five. An overrunning session is the most common reason a booking gets missed.
Guests staying at Viceroy Bali have the simpler version. The restaurant is a short walk from the villas, and the only drive to plan is the one into Sanggingan for the morning sessions.
Booking Ahead
Dinner is served from 6 pm to 8.30 pm, while lunch is available from 12 pm to 2 pm with at least 24 hours’ notice.
Apéritif Restaurant accepts reservations only for both lunch and dinner, making booking especially important during busy periods such as UWRF 2026.
Vegetarian, vegan and pescatarian menus require at least 24 hours’ notice. Most allergies and dietary requirements can also be accommodated when shared with the reservations team before arrival.
Festival schedules often lead to spontaneous dinner plans, particularly among guests who meet during panel discussions or workshops. Even so, booking earlier in the week offers the best chance of securing a preferred dining time for the closing weekend.
Choosing the Right Menu
Guided by the Moon is available in seven- and five-course formats, with a three-course option for guests seeking a shorter dining experience.
The seven-course menu is best suited to evenings without another commitment afterwards, allowing guests to experience the full progression at a relaxed pace.
The five-course menu is an excellent option for festival days that still include an evening screening, performance or other event. Guests with limited time may also appreciate the flexibility of the three-course format.
Dining with New Friends
One of the pleasures of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival is meeting people who share similar interests. Conversations that begin during a panel discussion often continue over dinner.
For groups of up to 10 guests, Apéritif Restaurant offers a private dining room with a single long table. It provides a comfortable setting for continuing discussions after the festival while enjoying the restaurant’s tasting menu together.
Larger groups can also be accommodated in the main dining room, with arrangements made through the reservations team.
Dress for the Evening
Festival days often involve lightweight clothing suited to warm weather and walking between venues.
Dinner at Apéritif Restaurant follows a smart-to-formal dress code. Sportswear and beachwear, including singlets and flip-flops, are not appropriate.
Because the dining room is fully air-conditioned, bringing a light jacket, shawl, or blazer is recommended, even during Bali’s warmer months.
The Hour Before
Pinstripe Bar opens daily from 4 pm beside Apéritif Restaurant and provides a relaxed setting before dinner.
Inspired by the Prohibition Era, the bar combines an Art Deco interior with live jazz and an extensive cocktail programme. It is an ideal place to unwind after the final festival session or continue discussing the day’s ideas before dinner begins.
Making a Reservation
Restaurant bookings become increasingly important during major Ubud events in October.
When making a reservation, guests should include their preferred date, the number of diners, the menu format, and any dietary requirements. Those interested in a particular bottle from the restaurant’s award-winning wine collection are encouraged to mention this when booking.
After several days of conversations, ideas, and new perspectives, dinner provides a quieter opportunity to reflect on the festival before heading home or continuing the journey through Bali.
