Ubud’s Dining Scene Heats Up And Welcomes Apéritif,
Ubud, a unique gem on Bali, diverges from the island’s well-known beaches, offering a vibrant tapestry of culture and a treasure trove of traditional crafts, from intricate stone carvings to woven masterpieces and captivating performances. Instead of the sea, Ubud is enveloped in lush farms, serene rice terraces, and dense forests.
Ubud’s status as Indonesia’s cultural hub naturally positioned it as an ideal breeding ground for a thriving culinary scene. Amid the family-owned warungs that serve a spectrum of Indonesian delights, modern cafes and restaurants have embraced local traditions in innovative ways. The Ubud Food Festival, a prominent celebration since 2015, stands testament to the town’s culinary allure, attracting award-winning chefs and thought leaders worldwide for enlightening demonstrations and discussions.
Ubud has also managed to carve a niche for itself in the fine-dining realm, notably as the birthplace of Locavore, the only Indonesian restaurant featured on Asia’s 50 Best List. Renowned international chefs, including Will Goldfarb of Netflix’s “Room 4 Dessert” fame, have made Ubud their home. But this hasn’t deterred Apéritif, a restaurant determined to elevate Ubud’s fine-dining scene even further.
Meet Apéritif, the latest entrant in town, courtesy of luxury hotelier Viceroy Bali. No expense was spared in its creation. Behind the resplendent colonial Dutch-style facade and interiors, Apéritif is armed with state-of-the-art culinary equipment, including a full-induction kitchen and smartphone-controlled gadgets for precise temperature adjustments. To complete the ensemble, the kitchen team, led by Executive Chef Nic Vanderbeeken, enjoys access to both a greenhouse and a hydroponics farm on the hotel premises.
“We aim to redefine the entire experience of luxury fine dining as we think about each guest’s enjoyment,” says Vanderbeeken. “From the space and décor to the atmosphere and quality of produce, whether local or imported, we value every little detail.”
How did the idea for Apéritif come about?
The restaurant’s name, like its approach to fine dining, isn’t a hastily made decision. It’s a nod to the European tradition of enjoying an aperitif, typically an alcoholic beverage, before dinner.
Apéritif revives this tradition by offering guests a taste of the roaring Twenties at a splendid bar, complete with dimmed lights, plush leather armchairs, and contemporary paintings. Cocktails, curated by award-winning bartender Ran Van Ongevalle, incorporate Indonesian twists into classic favorites like the Kemangi Cooler and Galangal Bubble Cocktail.
What do you think of Bali’s fine-dining scene?
In this inviting setting, diners get a tantalizing preview of the adjacent dining room’s delights: Lombok oyster with yoghurt whey, Betawi bullfrog leg with spicy coconut flakes, and a crudo of locally caught parrotfish with beetroot meringue and Balinese honey. These canapés provide an exquisite insight into Indonesia’s diverse ingredients, all while adhering to the principle that “quality comes first.” Whenever possible, ingredients are sourced locally, with imports considered only when suitable alternatives can’t be found.
How, in your opinion, is Apéritif different from these places?
Yet, it’s not just about locavorism; the restaurant’s eclectic, global cuisine sets it apart. The dishes harmonize a symphony of flavors and inspirations from various cultures, mirroring the cultural diversity of Apéritif’s leadership, represented by Belgian-born Vanderbeeken and American pastry chef Alexander McKinstry. Both have honed their craft in Michelin-starred restaurants and played integral roles in shaping the 10-course menu narrative.
That sounds like a lot on a plate. How does the team make it work on the menu then?
This culinary tapestry doesn’t overwhelm diners; it’s about weaving selected inspirations into a harmonious degustation menu. Often, disagreements arise when trying to explain a concept or flavor, but they invariably lead to the same result. Vanderbeeken emphasizes, “The best example of this all comes together is the ceviche. I clean and cure my parrotfish like the Japanese do with sashimi, and then we wrap the fish in wakame. We also made a leche de tigre and combined it with housemade coconut milk so it becomes quite like kinilaw. On top of that, we have avocado and tomato salsa. So we have three countries, several techniques on one plate.”
At Aperitif, you use both local and imported produce. How do these compare? What’s Indonesian produce like?
While Apéritif utilizes both local and imported produce, Indonesian ingredients have their unique charm. Vanderbeeken notes the quality of vegetables in Bali has been on an upward trajectory, even with occasional fluctuations. Local produce is predominantly used, except for Canadian lobster, which is imported, as beef doesn’t meet their standards, leading them to choose Wagyu for tartare. Pork, on the other hand, is abundantly sourced from the Bali highlands.
With their own greenhouse and hydroponics farm, Apéritif endeavors to cultivate herbs and flowers, as the local soil sometimes falls short of their quality requirements.
How much does local flavour come up on the menu?
While Indonesian flavors play a role in the menu, Apéritif offers an eclectic, international modern European cuisine that reflects the team’s respect for the region’s culture while providing a culinary journey that is both familiar and exotic. Vanderbeeken believes that Southeast Asian flavors, including those from Indonesia, are gaining prominence on the global stage alongside Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, and it’s time for Indonesia to shine internationally.
